Visiting Bab al-Khamis
  
previous   next page  contents 
  
{324} Wednesday 23d Dec: 1829
Back to revious page
Occasional but slight showers during the day but quite fair at 2pm though cloudy to admit our riding out with Seedy Mohamed & 2 of his cavaliers. We passed round the walls until we came to the market place of Thursdays called Sok el Kemees where we entered the city by the adjoining gate called thence the Bab el Kemees within which for several hundred yards we traversed heaps of undistinguishable ruins of tappia built dwellings which extended right & left to a nearly equal distance.


 
 Outside the Bab al-Khamis today                  Inside the Bab al-Khamis today



The view drew back my imagination to the historians & voyagers who depicted the ruins or the sites of Babylon & Tyre. As we approached the part of the city now inhabited a bevy of saints' tombs on the right render with their respectable appearance of repair, clustering round the green roofed sepulchre of the Patron Saint Seedy Ben El Abbas rendering the contrast {326} of the houses of the living yet more disgusting.

The Zawiya of Sidi bin al-`Abbas
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
More details of the Zawiya of Sidi bin al-`Abbas

Piles of dirt the refuse of life raised to the heighth of respectable hills much higher than the houses on the North & West of the city should have been noticed on our passage to the Sok el Kmees - & upon our return home we mounted again near the noble Jamaa l'Kootoobea one of these dunghills that we had ascended on a former day to feast our eyes with the melancholy but most impressive panorama of this ruined Capital. Again I counted 18 mosques, & tombs of holy fools or madmen quantum suff(32)

To return to our entry of the habitations of the living - mounds of fresh filth, pools of black abomination, squalid countenances of the curious "faithful" disgusting figures of the dirty fair, hooded upto & over the eyes with vile kerchiefs saturated as of necessity with breath & nasal distillations met us now breathing curses on the Nazarenes.

{329} The 2 Schousboes received this mor[nin]g a present of 2 horses from the Sultan. They are I am told not well pleased with the gift - the animals are far inferior to those I have received. Immediately on returning from our ride about 4 pm I was gladdened by letters from Tangier of the 8th and 9th instant.

Rained for several hours after sunset & heavily at 11pm



{327} Memorandum made after leaving Marocco from information given me by Isaac Pinto

It seems about a week before we left the city that Isaac accompanied Mr Williams into the Millah to visit the sick wife of Smahia Sumbel's relative & correspondent Ben el Ghazal. They met in proceeding to the Jew town a great crowd of people principally women who were engaged in celebrating the Moosoom or feast of Seedy Memon, which they were informed was celebrated every New Year's Day of the Moors in honour of their saint so called. This also, many Moors told Isaac, was the only day of the year upon which their women were allowed to go out & visit the Saints, and the mosques & walk about ye town. These fair slaves saluted the Jew & Nazarene Kaffers both of whom from Isaac's Frank dress they took to be Xians with the repeated cries of

Beesim ellah errachman errahim!

or "In the name (of) God the merciful who has mercy!"

Others told Isaac that this Feast in honor of Seedy Memon is held on the 3d day of the Messlem month Rajeb: which cannot be the fact, because, on further enquiry, Isaac discovered that the day of his said visit to the Millah was not the first but the 3d day of the Moorish month (33) and his informants added that the votaries of the saint make to his sanctity a sacrifice of a Bullock or a sheep according to their wealth which after being presented at the holy man's tomb or kooba or zowia (whichever it be) is afterwards distributed among the people who assisted at the ceremony.

{328} Oftentimes the Moorish devotees, to speak generally indeed all the visitors of their saints' tombs (or Koobas) & Sanctuaries (or Zowias) burn incense inside the kooba or zowia & light candles which they leave then burning. Isaac Pinto tells me they sell at Tangeers (as of course throughout the country) very thin candles of all colors except black* for the purpose which are made of various lengths to suit the longitude of purses or of piety.
*N.B. Black is, with the Moors, a color of ill omen. 

previous   next page  contents 
  

32. i.e quantum sufficit

33. N.B. This is what it says, despite the logical incoherence involved!